Saudi by Ebonie: What Ramadan Feels Like in Riyadh – A British Expat’s Experience

Ramadan is a sacred month in Saudi Arabia that shifts the rhythm of everyday life. Days are quiet and reflective. Nights are vibrant with gatherings, meals, and cultural traditions. For non-Muslims, it may take some adjusting. But with a little planning and respect for the customs, it becomes one of the most memorable times of the year. 

For Ebonie, a British expat in Riyadh, Ramadan offered a deeper connection to the community around her. From late-night souqs to shared Iftars with friends, she found joy in the contrast between calm and celebration. 

In this Q&A, Ebonie shares her experience, what surprised her most, and how Ramadan in Riyadh became a meaningful part of her life. 

What does Ramadan mean to you as a non-Muslim expat in Riyadh?
Ebonie: For me, Ramadan is about community and culture. I’m not Muslim, but the shift in the city’s rhythm — peaceful days and vibrant nights — makes it one of the most beautiful times to be in Saudi. You feel the spirit everywhere. 

Do you fast or face any challenges as someone who doesn’t?
I don’t fast fully, but I’ve tried partial fasting to understand the experience — it really deepens your respect for the practice. As long as you’re mindful and respectful, it’s not a problem. I eat at home during the day or use delivery apps. 

How do social dynamics work during Ramadan with mixed fasting groups?
It’s actually very relaxed. My friends who fast are always cool about it. We usually meet after sunset for Iftar, which becomes a shared experience. Respect is key — you avoid eating or drinking in public during the day. 

How does your daily routine change during Ramadan?
Work hours are shorter and things start later, which makes mornings more laid-back. Nights are when everything happens — from gym sessions to social hangouts. Gyms often stay open late and the city comes alive after Iftar. 

What’s a typical Iftar like for you?
It starts with dates and laban, followed by a feast — kabsa, sambosas, qatayef. Whether at a friend’s house or a restaurant, there’s always warmth, laughter, and connection. 

What’s your favorite Ramadan memory?
A night at Souq Al Zal — packed with families, glowing lights, the scent of spices — followed by a cozy Iftar with friends. It felt like a perfect mix of tradition and belonging. 

What makes souqs special during Ramadan?
They transform into lively night markets post-Iftar, full of energy and culture. I love hunting for handmade accessories and local dates — perfect for gifting. 

Have you experienced Ramadan elsewhere?
Yes, in London. It’s much quieter and less visible. In Saudi, the entire environment shifts — it’s immersive, communal, and deeply moving. 

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Watch Ebonie’s video here.